We are being driven by Ram, our driver now until we fly back to Delhi from Chandigarh, to Dharamshala. Travelling roughly eastwards to the mountains. To start with it is very flat with most fields planted with wheat. When that is harvested in April the fields will be prepared to be planted with rice for the monsoon season. We understand that there is irrigation to assist the wheat throughout the dry months. We wonder how mechanised the harvest is. Some fields are easily big enough for a combine but others aren’t. There is also some mustard and some fruit trees. One of the anomalies though is the trees. Whereas we are used to trees coming back to life in the spring and being green all through summer, here they are green in the winter and die off in the summer. Although not surprising when you consider temperatures in the 40’s throughout the summer, it still feels really odd!
As we drive we pass lots of small communities, schools, people working in the fields, lads playing cricket, stores selling everything from cement to street food (dhaba), groceries, fruit and what looks like car/bike tyres and parts.
There are lots of people on scooters and motorbikes which are used for carrying all sorts. It is not unusual to see 3 and sometimes 4 on a motorcycle, women in saris usually sitting side saddle. Today I have seen scooters with stacks of plastic chairs, probably a dozen, strapped in a column on the back, a large metal water butt, 6foot lengths of wood being held crosswise by the pillion passenger, milk churns, a basket full of goat kids! If only I had been able to take a photo!! Very few are wearing helmets despite it being a legal requirement, although I assume there is some kind of exemption for the Sikh men.
An hour into the journey and the scenery hasn’t changed at all, and neither have the roads! Still much better than in Rajasthan and made more comfortable anyway as we are now in a car! We have seen sugar cane, lots of water buffalo, fields of marigolds - the flowers are used as garlands - brick works, lots of people on bikes, some towing little trailers, horse drawn carts, cows, the occasional tuk tuk,
Wedding venues with their colourful curtains around the perimeter, a highly decorated entrance area and tables and chairs all set out and decorated.
We seem to be getting used to the roads and although some things still have us holding onto our seats most of the time we are just looking at what we are passing . Our guide said yesterday that roads were like war zones. You don’t tell the enemy what your next move is going to be!
2 hours in we get to the town of Pathankot. It has a lot of army camps. We are now in Himachal Pradesh, off the dual carriageway and the scenery is beginning to change. Still fairly arable but there are hills in the distance, still shrouded in the haze/mist/dust. More trees too. Soon after we stop for a loo break and a drink. Loos 8/10! Black tea. Not bothered with a coffee for days😱😂
All of a sudden there are snow capped mountains coming into view.
We are beginning to twist and turn on mountain roads, through small towns and villages. There are more pine trees and any crops that are growing are in small fields, often on terracing. When we left our roadside cafe there was a sign that said Dharamshala 70km. An hour later we still have 25km to go! Obviously the roads are slower and they are also rougher again. There are a lot of heavy lorries too although overtaking happens all the time!
We saw a lot of vultures. Huge birds. (In Mount Abu the entire population of Egyptian vultures had been wiped out because of diclofenac poisoning).
In Ram’s car, between the 2 back seats is a basket full of goodies. Water, coke, juice, peanuts, crisps, biscuits, chocolate and fruit for us to help ourselves to. Very nice on a long journey when it is lunch time and you haven’t reached your destination yet!
It was almost exactly 5 hours after leaving that we arrived at Chonor House, our hotel for the next 2 nights. It was built by the Norbulingka Institute which helps to preserve Tibetan arts and culture. It is based in Mcleod Ganj, higher up the mountain than Dharamshala, at an elevation of 2,082m.
We enjoyed a light lunch on the terrace of the restaurant, enjoying the sunshine even though the air feels cooler. Unfortunately there is a thick haze in the valleys below spoiling the views.
For the first time in this trip we are in the centre of town and the local market just a short walk away. It was good to be out having a look at all the stalls and running the gauntlet of people trying to make you buy. Some were very persistent! I did do a bit more haggling and bought a few more bits that I managed to get cheaper than the original asking price.
Tibetan noodles!
Then back to the hotel for a cup of tea and a shower before dinner.
The view from our room.
Whilst sitting there the maid knocked on the door and asked if we would like hot water bottles in our bed. On the basis that the offer suggested a cold night we said yes please! She also gave us a flask of hot water to make tea! We are prepared!!
For dinner we had traditional Tibetan food. Fried rice, baklab (fried vegetable pasties) and vegetable broth. The pasties were a bit odd, but otherwise all tasty.
Our room wasn’t actually too cold at all, but hot water bottles in the bed was a real treat!
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